JG BAR10 Double Feeding Assessment

[Shredder]

Saludos! Lo siento mucho si mi puesto está en Inglés porque no sé cómo decirlo en español.

Estoy usando la traducción de mis penas "Google Translate". Espero que es comprensible ...

Alvaroll and Hari, I don't know if the Spanish sentences above are correct and I have no intention of confusing anyone here. I just want to help and share my findings and experiences with what I am doing at my shop.

Hari, thank you for the information regarding the "mini o-ring" on the nozzle. Since my work is mostly concentrated on AEG's, I am quite unfamiliar with the internals of the other rifles. I am a very fast learner and it will help me a lot in the near future with regards to parts and the common problems associated with sniper rifles. Please help me along so that I can familiarize myself with everything.

Here's an update:

I noticed that the diameter of the nozzle is quite big and it scrapes the walls of the metal hop assembly. What I did was to remove .02 mm from the diameter of the nozzle (large part) and rounded the sharp corners a little bit...


The cause of the nozzle scraping the metal hop chamber was the plastic bracket/bushing that supports/aligns the cylinder every time you pull and push the bolt. The adhesive that was holding the plastic bracket/bushing in place wasn't sticking properly anymore making the cylinder wobble...


I made a replacement plastic bracket/bushing with a larger outer diameter to make it fit properly inside the metal (what's it called) and decreased its inner diameter a tiny bit so that the fitting is perfect...


On the left is the replacement bracket/bushing and on the right is the stock bracket/bushing on the cylinder for comparison...


I will post some updates after I assemble it all back.

Saludos

[kilgore]

Shredder, fantásticas modificaciones.
 Una idea, si la cabeza del pistón se lijara y redujera un poquito mas de lo que tu lo has hecho (0,02 m/m.) se le podría poner una goma termoretractir (cilindro de goma que encoje al aplicarle calor) y  la hermetizacion seria al 100% ¿Qué opináis?
Dejo un dibujo.
Saludos…

   
Shredder, great changes.
  One idea, if the head of the piston and reduce lijara a bit more than what you've done it (0.02 m / m) he could put a rubber termoretractir (cylinder rubber shrinks to apply heat) and sealing would be 100% What do you think?
I leave a picture.
Saludos ...

[TKGO]

thanks Shredder

[Hari]

The "metal part" I think you mean the receiver, the part where the cylinder and the rest of the bolt are.

Thats why I like the L96 style that much, instead of the VRS/BAR 10. The plastic ring are another problem, I really don't know why the put the ring in the VSR. The other spring operated rifles have the cylinder to fit the receiver without any plasti rings. PDI (I always put PDI examples because is one of the top brand for airsoft snipping and I know all they have after a lot of research) have the Bore up cylinders (the same as we could see in the AEG bore up they are a little more bigger that the standar) they come with thinner plastic "cylinder rings" (black instead of the basic white ones). Also, PDI have another receiver, with the bore up cylinder and the PDI receiver you dont need the plastic rings (the inside is thinner to fit without rings), that let me think the "floating cylinder" was not a clever move from Tokio Marui, and I hope they change an go back to the classic "cylinder & receiver" fricction for the next generation rifles.

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/vsr_bup.html  <---- Here you can see the Bore up parts, and the design of the cylinder head with the O-ring in the "nozzle".

Kilgore lo que tu dices esta bien, pero como tiene que ajustar bien con la goma y la camara (y esto lo podemos hacer en el VSR, porque en la camara de PDI tendriamos que rebajar tanto la boca que igual nos la cargamos =P el espacio del primer agujero es minimo) por friccion acabaremos sacando la termoretractil, asi que no se hasta que punto nos interesa en la tortuosa camara del VSR meter algo asi a no ser que le hagamos un acanalado para que no se nos quite el "condon" de la termoretractil. De todas formas, el rebajar metal en la boca de la cabeza de cilindro tiene que ser muy preciso, y yo no tengo maquinaria para eso, si tu la posees (y posees un VSR o un BAR =P) se podria hacer un rebaje "desigual" para que la termo no pudiera deslizarse.

 

[kilgore]

Hari cierto lo que dices, mi idea habría que probarla y probarla, como por ejemplo poniéndole una gotita de pegamento y después aplicar calor para el termoretractir.

Pero llevas razón no seria fácil conseguir un ajuste que fuera bueno y a la vez duradero.

Respecto a la cámara PDI para el M24 la función de hermetizar es mucho mas sencilla, ya lleva una junta torica y además no seria difícil colocar otra.

Saludos

[Shredder]

Hola!

kilgore, muchas gracias for the nice drawing and idea but I have to agree with Hari. O-rings at the tip of the nozzle is a very nice and practical design to be used.

Hari, muchas gracias también... I agree with everything you say. How I wish I had mucho dinero so I can have all the guns I need and make upgrade parts for all of them. I have two lathe machines and one milling machine but all of them are not yet CNC'd. 

I make the SCS, gun parts, bushings, etc... manually which is very hard for me to do since I work alone. I will be flying over to Manila this coming February and look for nice materials. I hope that I can come up with my own designs which will be affordable and practical to everyone.

Can I request for the most common parts that easily get broken so I'll have an idea what to make once I have the materials? It will be of great help... Thanks in advance!

Update:

I experienced "slam firing" this afternoon and I discovered that the 1st sear has a crack...


I will try to make another 1st sear using 1018 steel since there are no 4140 steel available here in our place.

Btw, EdGI uses 4140 steel for the 1st sear which is way far better than PDI's JIS S45C steel sears.

Saludos

[kilgore]

Shredder si haces los H-nub  y no tienes CNC es por que tienes buenas manos, (imagino utilizaras una matriz) lo cierto es que con un CNC facilitaría tu trabajo y con tu ingenio harías maravillas.
Estaré atento a tus ideas.

Saludos…

   
Shredder if you make the H-nub and you do not have CNC is that you have good hands, (used imagine a parent) the fact is that with a CNC facilitate your work and your wits do wonders.
Be attentive to your ideas.

Greeting

[Shredder]

kilgore, I prefer to make the SCS by manually operating my lathe. Although it takes some time to finish 1 pc, I find it more convenient and I get to inspect each piece properly and throw away the rejects! 

The CNC can probably help me a lot with the other items since they are bigger in diameter compared to the SCS which is quite "tiny".

Saludos

[kilgore]

Como siempre digo si fuera rico me compraría un CNC jejeje
Si tienes ese control de calidad en los SCS , son muy baratos…
Saludos

As I always say if I buy a rich CNC jejeje
If you have that quality control in the SCS, are very cheap ...
Greetings

[Shredder]

I agree! You don't need a CNC machine to make something. Good skilled hands will do the job but it will take a little bit longer to finish something.

Estoy de acuerdo! Usted no necesita una máquina CNC a hacer algo. Buenas experto manos harán el trabajo, pero tendrá un poco más para terminar algo.

Saludos

Is the Spanish translation correct?

[TKGO]

is good but don,t perfect

aun asi lo haces muy bien

[Shredder]

mi madre sabe cómo hablar español. Yo le invito a que me enseñan para que yo pueda conversar con todos ustedes en español en el futuro.

[Hari]

If the 1st sear is broken think about change the whole 45º system. The piston sear, the ones that catch the piston when we bolt the rifle, put so much stress into the 1st sear (also called by many people "trigger sear" because is inside the trigger box), that and the fact we all know that JG isn't great in materials, is the reason of the slamfire in the BAR (TM vsr10 is better in materials, and is not so easy to break).

If you decide to do another 1st sear, think about doing another piston sear (90º like the L96 one) and change the piston end to a 90º end (45º and 90º systems have diferent 1st sear, piston sear and piston end). With that you eliminate the vibrations at high upgrades (450fps with 0.2 is higher enough to get slam fires), and get less stress in the 2 sears, also in the set pin (the long part in the trigger box) and have a more sensitive feel on the trigger.

Ed do the top quality part for this type of rifles, barrels are better than pdi ones, and the cylinder set is on par with PDI ones. In fact they could get on higher upgrades without risking the whole rifle to explode...

If you ever get a CNC machine we will have to talk long hahaha....

I admire your effort to speak in spanish =)

[Shredder]

Muchas gracias Hari. I will have to buy my own rifles so I can study them properly... hahaha! 

I will pray hard so that I will be blessed with CNC on all of my machines and we will talk for a very loooong time when that happens. Customized parts are far way better than the mass produced parts. You can even get to choose what kind of material you want.

Hola y buen día a cada uno!

Saludos

[Intruso]

Sobre lo de meter una torica(o-ring) en el nozzle... No lo he probado, pero no tiene mala pinta.

si se hacen buenas acanaladuras, no tiene por que soltarse por friccion..